The National, The perfect pastry, how to make it and get your fill

“You’re going for a cookie being like ‘I know this cookie isn’t going to round out my diet, but it’s what’s going to bring me joy’,” extols New York chef Christina Tosi in the trailer for the latest series of Chef’s Table. Judging from the upbeat montage of gelato scooping, precision pastry shaping and saccharine sauce dripping against a head bobbing I Want Candy soundtrack, she’s probably right.

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The National, The rise and rise of the microgreen

The microgreen, as it is now better (and more fashionably) known, has likely been served to you as part of an elegant plate on a multi-course serving menu in a fancy restaurant. It is those tiny leaves delicately handled with tweezers that you see chefs use on programmes such as Netflix’s Chef’s Table or MasterChef, adding a final note of decoration to an expertly composed dish.

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The National, A sodium balanced diet is well worth its salt

For thousands of years, salt – originally sourced from the mineral remains of lakes and seas, and more recently chemically composed from sodium and chloride – has been a main fixture in our diets. The Romans coined the word “salary” from the Latin word “sal”, for salt, because a soldier’s salary was the amount he was allotted to buy the seasoning. In an ode to salt written in 1912, psychoanalyst Ernest Jones explored the human obsession with salt – apparently, Plato described it as “dear to the Gods”, and Homer called it “divine”.

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